Reviewed March 2008
From Rock Cakes to Fish Cakes!
It was on the first day of the millennium when geologist Mark Hartstone had the revelation that he should realise his dream, swap rock cakes for fish cakes and follow his passion for cooking!
Over the next seven years Mark trained at Bournemouth College and worked in the brigades and kitchens of Europe’s top chefs culminating with stints at the prestigious Chewton Glen and as Pierre’s sous chef at Pebble Beach (very apt for an ex geologist!) winning various regional and national competitions.
Emmanuelle Hartstone on the other hand, whose entire family is from Nantes achieved a Diploma in Hospitality Management after a three year course and was until recently the General Manager at the Montagu Arms Hotel in Beaulieu.
Prior to that she has spent time in various assistant managerial positions in America working in Massachusetts, The Black Forest in Germany, the Summer Lodge in Dorset and two periods at the Chewton Glen, where she acquired an excellent knowledge of the English language.
When Mac and Sue, the previous owners of La Fosse (named after their family surname) decided to take a well earned retirement, Mark and Emmanuelle realised that another part of their dream could actually come true. Mark with his superb culinary skills and Emmanuelle with her excellent hospitality experience would now be able t
o run their very own establishment as they wanted. And so an all new La Fosse – Restaurant with Rooms was born.
Beginning on a step by step basis Mark and Emmanuelle started by offering quality bed and breakfast accommodation initially and then opened the restaurant on December 1st last year in time for the festive season. As well as creating a superb restaurant with seasonal menus for up to 20 guests (25 guests for private parties) they are also offering the “home from home” experience for business travellers, tourists and local guests by combining this with accommodation and a full English breakfast.
After a short 15 minute drive we arrived at La Fosse which is perfectly situated in the centre of the ancient village of Cranborne. We were greeted at the door by Emmanuelle and shown into the cosy area next to the fire for a pre dinner drink, ( A fine selection of wines is offered together with my husbands favourite tipple from Ringwood brewery!) and to study the inviting menu. Since we arrived fairly early, we were able to have a brief but informative chat with them both. Mark’s style of cuisine is traditional, wholesome English, but with an International twist. He explained that they really do like to use as much local food as possible and all their local suppliers are proudly listed on the menus, so diners can see where every mouthful has come from! The carrots eaten during the evening had actually been picked that morning! We were very impressed at the number of local suppliers Mark has managed to locate, even the cheese biscuits were local, but more of that later!
The delicious crusty selection of local bread (olive & rosemary, sourdough, 5 seed) from Long Crichel that arrived first, set the scene and 
my starter of succulent Pan-fried pigeon breast and confit of pheasant (from the Cranborne Estate) with chestnuts and caramelised onions was as delectably juicy as my husband’s scallops (from Woodsfish in Brixham) with black pudding and locally grown oriental salad leaves. We would have liked to sample a further starter but thought we would wait till next time!
Crispy duck confi, sweet chilli vegetables (from Future Farms in Martin) and lemongrass rice was my choice of main course, which perfectly summed up Mark’s culinary aspirations as did other main course dishes such as Monkfish with garlic, fish pie with tiger prawns and roasted pork belly with braised red cabbage.
The puddings on offer were also based on the same theme so I selected a Pear poached in Gluhwein, caramelised brioche and chocolate sauce which we both shared! A very decadent pud!
My husband chose the cheeseboard which was beautifully presented on a slate and consisted of slices of no less than nine local cheeses from Dorset, Hampshire and Somerset and even the crackers were from local bakeries! A marvellous touch we thought. Final coffees were accompanied by delicious frozen banoffee cheesecake sweets and dates split with a slice of marzipan.
Mark and Emmanuelle still have loads of exciting ideas to develop La Fosse to an even higher standard so we suggest you book soon to avoid the queue!
Visit their excellent website for more details about themselves and La Fosse. www.la-fosse.com
La Fosse at Cranborne, London House, The Square, Cranborne, Dorset, BH21 5PR. 01725 517604. www.la-fosse.com
